Last Day

What a last day! We saw one more temple from the Angkor period. This one was Banteay Srei, or the citadel of women. It was much smaller than the others and quite beautiful with its pink sandstone. Initially, they thought it had been made by and/or for women. Now they know it was created by a priest and not necessarily for women. Our guide, Ra, said he remembers his first visit here in 1995 when it wasn't completely safe to be there because of land mines and possible attack by the Khmer. Just another reminder of the reality of life in Cambodia. We went to a land mine museum immediately after the temple, which showed, once again, the stark contrast of beauty and horror here.

After lunch we had another one of those strange "only in Camodia" experiences. On Tonle Sap, the large lake between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, we took a boat to a floating village. It is a poor part of a very poor country. After getting unstuck on a sand bar (we helped get us unstuck), a boat pulled longside and a little girl jumped on board our boat to try to sell us cokes. We did not buy and one of our students reported that when she got back in her own boat without a sale, her mother slapped her. After that came the part that Ra had warned us about: the children in narrow boats who came along both sides of the boat holding pythons and begging for money.  They would act as if they were going to shove the snakes on board. We got off at one of their stores that was also the location of a crocodile farm. I tried to steer clear of the kids with snakes. It was a bizarre ending to an eventful trip.

And we had lunch at a hammock bar and restaurant that was on stilts over a marsh. The food was good even though the service was slow (they had only a two-burner kitchen) and the rest we had in the hammocks while we waited was great. Shaded hammock bars on a hot day are such a great idea.

And now we're on our way home. All we have left is the flight home and a quick tour of Seoul, South Korea during our 11-hour layover.

Siem Reap

We spent the day around the complex of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. The building of these massive structures began in the 12th century. We saw Angkor Thom in the pouring rain and Angkor Wat under the blazing sun. When I say massive, it really is awe-inspiring in both size and structure. To stand there and think of the people constructing these structures is (to use a dated-but-apt phrase) mind-blowing. It was Hindu at its origin, later to become Buddhist. Both influences can be seen. Angkor Wat is the world's largest religious structure.

More sobering was our stop at one of 300 killing fields that was part of Pol Pot's horrific legacy. Cambodia lost at least two million people to the Khmer Rouge's reign of terror (1976-1979).

This will be our last night before we fly home. It's been a great trip. I hope to come back some day -- with Doug this time.

The Killing Fields

Cambodia is quite different from Vietnam. Mr. Ra, our Cambodian guide, and Ken gave us several good mini-lectures on the history and culture of Cambodia. We watched "The Killing Fields" and toured Tuol Sleng, the prison/interrogation center in Phnom Penh. We plan to visit one of the actual killing fields in Siem Reap. With a population of 8 million, around 2 million Cambodians were killed between 1976 and 1979. There are no words to adequately respond to the horror.

There were eight survivors of Tuol Sleng, two of whom were there this morning. They have written their stories and many of our students bought copies. The photo is of Alexa with the two survivors.

I was reminded of the Cambodian family that was sponsored by some Kalona, Iowa churches at that time. I realize now how little we could understand or empathize. They seemed so different, so odd to us. I know we tried; I'm not sure how well we were able to care for such wounded people.

There are still 100 deaths or injuries each year from land mines laid during the civil war. The mines were laid by a number of countries, including the U.S.

Rest Stop

Much of today was spent on the bus on National Highway 6 going from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Our last leg of the trip, the next two days, will be spent at Angkor Wat.

On the way here we stopped twice, once for a bathroom stop and once for lunch. Everytime I think we had the ultimate experience of Something Completely Different another one pops up, more surprising and/or unusual than the last. At our rest stop, we got off the bus to a teeming crowd of vendors. They were more insistent than any we've seen so far. There was great fruit: tiny bananas, mangoes and pineapple. There were fried and live insects and arachnids: tarantulas, crickets, and something else that I couldn't label. The fried ones were flavored and spicy. One boy tried to put a live tarantula on Joel's shirt. Was it an attempt to sell one or a desire to annoy the tourists?

The bathrooms were the squat kind -- and guarded by a woman who didn't intend to let us out without paying. Most of us had not changed money to Cambodian Riels, but she allowed us out with a one dollar bill for everyone.

Andrew bought several fried tarantulas (he seems determined to try everything new) and he willingly shared with any willing taker. We tried them. That's not the royal we -- I really did try one leg of tarantula.

I got on the bus with a bag of delicious peeled mangoes. One little girl sat on the steps of the bus, peered in at me crying, "Why you not buy from me? Why you buy, but not from me?"

Our lunch stop was much calmer at a restaurant by a lake. The food was delicious. I had sour soup with fish. I might have to find a Cambodian cook book.

Smells of Vietnam

We're on the bus leaving Vietnam. We should be in Phnom Penh by early afternoon. The main road between Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh is lined with small shops. This is our last (and lasting) glimpse of Vietnam.

As for the smells of Vietnam, they were many -- and each is as intense and integral to this country as small shops and the persistent sellers. There is often the odor of incense, sandalwood seems to be the most prevalent. Incense sticks are found on alters and beneath trees, in small nooks and crannies everywhere. The best part is that it covers some other odors, less desirable and difficult to pinpoint.

The smell of meat cooking is even more noticeable. Since so much of life is on the sidewalk, all those cooking aromas permeate the cities. There are the sweet smells of tropical fruit, of coconut, and of jasmine. But all of it is mixed with the heavy concentration of humid tropical air and of my own sweat.

At first, its a bit over-powering; after three weeks, it's just part of life. Like the trickle of sweat on my face and back, or the clutching and chattering of women (and children) trying to sell things to me, "You buy from me."

On to Cambodia.

Ben Thanh Market

I could describe the Ben Thanh Market; I could photograph it. Neither method would be adequate nor accurate in conveying the experience of shopping in Ho Chi Minh City's Ben Thanh Market. I shouldn't even try but I will. Covering several city blocks and packed into overstuffed cubicles, this market assaults all senses. The aisles are just wide enough to pass someone. It is tight and stuffy, with merchants reaching out to grab your arm and force you to buy from them. Cloth material, bags, shoes, scarves, t-shirts, coffee, candy, nuts, chess sets . . . you name it, its there in great amounts. We emerged from the depths of the market with a few less duongs, several purchases, and an intense need for fresh air. It was great . . . for about half an hour. That was all I could handle.

Rachel, Amy and I left to get coffee out on the street. It was, in fact, Highlands coffee and it could have been a Starbucks in San Francisco. Almost.

This is our last day in Vietnam. Tomorrow, we'll be on the bus for Cambodia. I'll miss Vietnam. This has been an incredible journey from the border with China in the north to the Mekong Delta in the south. I'm grateful for having been given this amazing opportunity.

Cu Chi Tunnels and Cao Dai

Today it was a trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels and to a Cao Dai Temple. The Cu Chi Tunnels were used during the Vietnam/American War. It was at the end of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the supply line that ran from North Vietnam to the south. They built an extensive underground system in which to live and disperse weapons and supplies and evade the Americans. Their system of tunnels was 140 miles long and it included lots of booby traps. The U.S. carpet bombed this area after they finally figured out what was going on; there are craters to show for it. We could go down in one tunnel. The film we saw before going into the tunnel area likened the Americans (at least the military) to "a crazy batch of devils." I'm sure that's how it seemed to them at the time of the war.

Cao Dai is an interesting religion. It formed in Vietnam in 1926, and is an amalgamation of Christianity, Buddhism and local religious customs. Their saints include Sun Yet Sen, Jesus and Victor Hugo. They stand for justice and care for the poor and politically, they opposed both the French and the communists.

That's Luis photo bombing the shot of me outside the temple.

Life on the Mekong Delta

Today we went island hopping on the Mekong Delta to get a glimpse of life and agriculture there. The first island was known for its fruit. While we ate fruit, local musicians played traditional Vietnamese instruments and sang for us. The second island was known for its coconuts. We watched them make coconut candy, had a sip of coconut wine, and held a boa constrictor. The people here call the coconut tree the tree of life and they have found many uses for every part of the coconut.

Lunch was on another island with about six or seven courses. There was, of course, lots of fish and it was great -- although it wasn't so pretty. I took a video of the woman rolling our spring rolls at the table but I can't figure out how to upload it with this tablet. The rolling was a fascinating and speedy process.

We ended at a fish farm near a fourth island. And our day isn't over. We have a river cruise tonight with music and food.

Ho Chi Minh City!

First impressions of Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon: it's almost like we're in a different country than the north and central Vietnam. Hanoi seemed fast-paced but managable; it had a definite order amid the chaos there. Here we're in a city with even more traffic and chaos. Saigon has a much more cosmopolitan and urbane feel. We saw very little graffiti in Hanoi; in Saigon there's graffiti. There are more ethnic restaurants (lots of American restaurants/chains), high rise buildings, glitz and neon, and more tourists. There are even the "tourist police" at intersections to help us wind our way through the overwhelming traffic as we cross the street.

One of the students called this New York City on LSD. He clarified that it's not just crack (as the saying usually goes.) It's clearly much stronger than that. I have to agree.

On the way from the airport to the hotel, Ken talked a bit about the history of the south. The north has always been the center of life and government and power. The people who moved south were (much like those who moved west in the U.S.) the ones looking for more freedom and space and less oversight. So there is a different feel and spirit to the place. He likened the difference beteeen Hanoi and Saigon to the difference between Washington, D. C. and L.A.

So now I'm anticipating three great days around and in Ho Chi Minh City. It should be good.

The photos are all out the bus window on the ride from the airport to our hotel.

Lunch on the Beach

Ken wanted us to have banh xeo, a pancake-type specialty of the region near My Lai/Son My. Tony, our guide, asked where the best banh xeo (pronounced bang say-o) could be found and we were directed to a little road by the beach where there was a row of small local restaurants. We sat down in large covered area across the road by the beach and ordered. They brought us plates of banh xeo and fried noodles along with a pot of boiled clams. This was not a place where tourists ever come. The food was great and the experience even better. I don't even like clams, but these were delicious.

The real kicker -- the bill. Mounds of food and drinks for everyone for the equivalent of about $41 U.S. in a thatched pavilion by the South China Sea. It was good.

My Lai / Son My

We drove down the coast to My Lai yesterday. What we have called My Lai (place of the 1968 massacre) is actually Son My. It was a sobering, thought-provoking time. There is now a museum, monument, and a partially re-created village on the site of the original village. I have chosen to put on two photos only: one of the American soldier who went against orders to try to save villagers; the other of the foot prints that were re-created on the paths between the fields -- bare feet of villagers mingling with the boot prints of soldiers.

Hoi An and Rovinj

Something about this town reminds me of Rovinj, Croatia from last summer. Perhaps its the azaleas on the walls of homes and shops or the narrow streets full of people, the quiet of the midday heat and the eruption of life when the sun goes down and the air cools (a little) with families out walking and eating and playing.

When I look more closely all similarity ends. The architecture here has a definite Chinese/Japanese influence, the lights of the bridge and the lanterns are eastern, the language and its tonal quality tends to hover in a higher range, and the menus have different foods. There are no truffles here, but there are some great Vietnamese-flavored taco knock-offs.

But the liveliness of the night and the lighted toys that kids spin into the evening sky and the peacefulness of a warm (but no longer hot) summer evening -- those things give me the same feeling in both places.

So today, meals were on our own. I had a delightful lunch with Glenn and a wonderful dinner with Lauren, Joel and Denis. And then I soaked up the atmosphere of the relatively cool evening -- and bought a few presents. I love the lighted turtle in the river and the floating lotus flowers. The guy sitting in the one photo is playing a traditional Vietnamese instrument.