Last Three Days

The last three days of travel in Ireland and Northern Ireland have been full and, in a way, a bit heavy. We ended with N. Ireland and have learned a lot about the aftermath of peace processes. I haven't been able to upload photos or get online to post.

The city bus in Belfast dropped us off at city centre and the first thing I saw was a statue dedicated to women workers. That, in itself, was great, but to make it even better, someone had yarn-bombed the two statues, thus combining two things I love and look for wherever I go: women's history and street art.

In both Belfast and Derry (aka Londonderry, depending on one's political inclinations) we saw the political murals and talked to people about the peace process. It is, however, to quote our taxi driver, "a funny kind of peace." When there was an effort to bring 8 and 9 year olds together across the divide of Catholic-Protestant animosity, it didn't work; the children started kicking each other and calling each other names. Our guide said, "We have to get them much earlier, by the age of 4, before their parents have taught them to hate." Decades, centuries of animosity die hard.

There is a literal, physical wall between the Protestant/Orange side and the Catholic sides of Belfast. In a twist of irony they call it the  Peace Wall, but it is a peace wall in a loose sense of the word. It keeps factions apart, that is all. All but one of the gates are locked at night; only one is kept open and that one is heavily monitored. In Derry, there is a peace bridge over the Foyle River connecting the two sides.

Ends of trips are bittersweet. We saw a lot of places, learned (even touched) points of history both ancient and modern, met kind and helpful people -- and it was all good. We drove roads that felt un-drivable (if that's a word) and made it through with nary a scratch.  We visited six libraries, both old and new (for me) and walked on four (or was it five) iconic brdges (for Doug.) We ate scrumptious food (the mussels were particularly good) and relaxed together.

Our dear Precious (Matthew's poodle) died while we were gone and that makes homecoming a bit less joyful. Even so, its good to get back. To travel is good and coming home -- that's good too.

Belfast I

What follows are some bits from people we have talked to.

As we started the climb up Croagh Patrick (we didn't go far -- it was a rough and rocky path) an 8 year old boy was coming down with his family. He and a younger sister were playing and running and skipping. I asked if he got to the top and he said yes. I noted (to him) that he still had a lot of energy and he replied "Yes ma'am, a wee bit." Then I asked if the climb had been difficult and he replied again, "Yes ma'am. A wee bit."

Met a young woman today, an attendant at the Belfast Titanic museum who was quite knowledgable and helpful. Turns out that she's leaving next week to spend a month in the U.S. When I asked where she replied that she'll be in Iowa City! We discussed what to do and see there. I wished later I'd have told her how to contact my sisters and brothers so she could get a personal tour of Kalona.

Talked to an elderly couple in a pub one evening who gave us their thoughts on the Irish elections (local and EU elections) and explained about the political parties of Ireland.

The Belfast man, Al, who gave us a political history tour of Belfast and the Troubles talked about the peace and the issues of this place. "They might call it peaceful times, but its a funny kind of peace."

Then there were all the wonderful people at the Belfast bus stop who helped us find a good bus to take to get us as close to our hotel as possible after we just missed the last bus that would have taken us directly to our place.

We've met some wonderful people; it is one of the joys of traveling.

High Crosses, Monastaries, and Neolithic Structures

The monastary ruins at Clonmacnoise and Monasterboice both have examples of high crosses from the eleventh and twelfth centuries. One of the crosses at Monasterboice was particularly intricate and engaging. The monks of the time carved Bible stories into it and used the cross to teach the stories to illiterate people. The details are fascinating and at the bottom there are even signs of the zodiac and one panel had several cats. Otherwise, it depicted Adam and Eve, David, and more. This cross is in a cemetery that surrounds the ruins and round tower. The old crosses and ruins set amid more recent graves has a certain poignancy.

We saw three neolithic sites today -- passage tombs that predate the pyramids. They were Newgrange, Knowth, and the Hill of Tara. Although there are no written records to help understand the meaning and purpose of these places and the artwork they contain, one thing is certain: the design and constrction of these places was done by people who were intelligent and observant. If they could design a structure that aligned with the sunrise (or sunset, as one place did) on a certain day of the year, they had more than a rudimentary grasp of solar patterns.

If I concentrate real hard, I can begin to sort out time periods from Neolithic to Bronze and Iron Ages to early Christian and Medieval times. Many sites contain pieces of numerous eras.

Glebe Stone Circle

The sign pointed off the road to the Glebe Stone Circle. But it was off across a pasture and there was no place to park, and there was only about a foot of grassy space between the edge of the road and the stone fence. We drove past twice trying to figure out if there really was something there and if it was possible to see it. (This wasn't in any guidebook with a handy explanation on how to access it; we just happened on the sign.) Finally we found a farm drive nearby (about a sxteenth of a mile away) that had a small space where we could park. We started to walk back toward the sign, but Doug gave up when a car went by and we had no place to go to avoid it except to press into the grass against the fence.

I wasn't about to give up yet.

I got to the sign and still couldn't figure out how to get to the actual site. But if it had a brown marker/pointer then it must mean it was for the general public. Right? Then I noticed a small slit that came halfway down the stone wall. When I looked through I could see there were 2 cement steps leading down the other side. And a barely-visible path led through the cow pasture to a clump of trees about an eighth mile away. The cows looked pretty disinterested so I climbed through and started across, watching out for cow pies and hoping no other animals were in the pasture (like an irritated bull.)

I made it across and saw the stone circle -- it was worth it even if it wasn't Stonehenge.

Doug waited patiently back at the car, although I told him he should have been concerned enough to watch me, just in case I didn't see some animal (the hypothetical angry bull, for example) coming for me. He said he didn't want to risk his own life standing on a busy highway. But really, only three cars went by while I was navigating my way out and back.

One More Shot

Just wanted to add a shot of us at the Hungry Monk Cafe drinking our afternoon coffee. It was a great day, all-in-all.

Cong

We're in Cong, County Mayo for the night. Here are a few street shots of Cong, along with some details of the medieval ruins of Cong Abbey.

The stone hut in the river is part of Cong Abbey and it was the monks' fishing house. It was built with the river flowing underneath. They set nets through a hole in the floor with a bell attached. When the bell rang they would know they had a fish and go get it.

A 1951 John Wayne movie, "The Quiet Man," was filmed in Cong so you can (if you like) tour the houses used in the movie. We saw the movie before we came and went in the house of the dying man. The cat is in that house. It has nothing to do with the movie, but I liked it. The cat made Doug pet it the entire time we were inside. The man who was staffing the house not only talked to us about the movie but also about the Irish game of hurling. Today's hurling game was televised and showing in every store and restaurant we went into this afternoon.

The Burren

Tonight I'm tired. We had a long drive and saw the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren. Its a strange, rocky place with limestone that is carved by the water and loaded with plants and small animals even though it has abarren look and feel to it. It supports flora that is found in Mediterranean, alpine, and arctic climates.

Some of the roads today were the narrowest ones to date -- several that were mere lanes. Driving gets easier. The biggest problem (harder than staying on the left) is that I persist In looking to my right to glance in the rearview mirror. I figure that if that's the worst thing its going okay.

The rock formation is a prehistoric "portal tomb." The other photos are just flavors of Ireland. The two young women are dancing to the music of the man playing a concertina.

Dingle Peninsula

This is day three of driving on the left and it's going well. Its kind of fun even on one lane roads (with 2 lanes of traffic) or in town centers where you have to squeeze past parked cars while meeting others. No mishaps and no blood pressure problems  -- except for a few seconds here and there. All signs are in Gaelic here which adds to the fun of getting around.

Dingle Peninsula has so many ancient sites and ruins. We did a guided tour of the end of the peninsula and stopped at all the sites we could find. There were churches, monk's huts, forts, and castles. Trying to sort out time periods -- and remember them -- has been challenging. The tip of Dingle is the western-most point in Europe.

Our B & B is a bit quirky in the best sense of the word. And it has great food -- all vegetarian.

Rock of Cashel

We got through our first day of driving through Ireland. We drove from Dublin to Kilkenny to Cashal to our hotel in Cappoquin. I love driving through ordinary green countryside on winding roads, then rounding a corner to see a medieval castle. I wonder what it does to people to live their lives where history is so apparent and immediate.

The Rock of Cashel was an important seat of Irish kings from 300-1100 A.D. when it was turned over to the church; it was important politically and ecclesiastically. St. Patrick himself baptized a king here in 450 A.D. It is impressive for the way it rises above the Plain of Tipperary.

Tonight we're staying in a Georgian-era hotel called Pilgrim's Rest. It's not so beautiful on the outside (at least I'm no fan of Georgian style) but it has a wonderful interior and marvelous (chatty) proprietors who are also great cooks. Even Doug says it is tranquil and pleasant. It is beside the Mount Melleray Abbey (cistercian order - established in 1832) which is a beautiful old complex to walk around at sunset, which we did after dinner last night. I kept thinking the name was familiar and finally figured out why. In 1849, a monk from this monastary established New Melleray near Dubuque, Iowa.

Dublin

I don't know why my Garenin post finally published. It was the first one I wrote.

Now back to our current days.

Dublin is vibrant and busy city, a great place to wander and enjoy. We visited the Dublin Castle, Trinity College and its Book of Kells, Temple Bar (Dublin's version of Paris' Left Bank), and the James Joyce Cultural Center. Dublin has a great light rail system. And even though it drizzled from time to time, the sun came out often enough to dry off between showers. So this is Ireland.

Doug is standing with James Joyce who is a large presence in his hometown. Doug can lay claims to having read Ulysses in its painstaking entirety.

Trinity College's old library has an impressive and wonderful reading room. And the Book of Kells is awe-inspiring. To think of the monks sitting in their cold and dreary scriptorium and copying the four gospels is mind-boggling. The calligraphy and the artwork is worth seeing -- even if you only see one page and its in a crowded room and no photos allowed. I'm grateful someone managed to save it from the marauding Vikings.

Finally I have to show the post box. It may have been painted an Irish green, but it still sports the English crown and King Edward's initials.

Glasgow 2

We took an architectural walk, explored crooks and alleys, rode the Glasgow subway, saw the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, and ended the day at the Wee Curry House (Scottish-Indian fusion food -- think haggis pakoras!) The key to enjoying Glasgow, which is (on the surface) a drab, industrial city, is to look up. There are so many interesting architectural features to this city, the city of Charles Rennie MacKintosh (architect.)

I'm going to put a few random street shots, including a street mural by Rogue One. I was happy to happen on one of those.

Glasgow

We flew from the island to Glasgow this morning and spent the day exploring. Its a busy city this weekend. There is a major football (soccer) game today -- the Scottish Cup Final. Our hotel has a sign posted asking people not to wear either team colors on the premises. Evidently emotions run a little high over these games and the sight of the other team's colors can set off small (or not  so small) brawls. Also, our hotel staff informed us,  Barry Manilow has a concert here tomorrow so between the two events they're  booked full.

We were at the Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis. The Necropolis (cemetery) was rather fascinating in its structure -- built to look like a certain Paris cemetery.  Its a bit old and decaying, kind of wistful and winsome in a tumble-down sort of way. We found the grave of William Miller, a children's poet  of the 18th  century, known for "Wee Willie Winkie."

I had the requisite fish and chips today while Doug had chips and chips.

More Wind

If yesterday was windy, today (Friday) was almost gale-like. We tried a hike on the West Side Trail -- 2-3 miles against the wind the entire way. And it was along the cliffs of the west side of Lewis. It was beautiful -- when I could look up. We cut it short and headed back. At one point, down into the last cove before our cottage, we hung onto each other to maintain our balance and keep moving ahead.

I loved the vernal pools and the wind rippling them.

We're grateful that the first 5 days were sunny and much less windy. The forecast had been for rain all week. Didn't happen.

Love it, but I'll be ready for urban hiking again. On to Glasgow.