Last Three Days

The last three days of travel in Ireland and Northern Ireland have been full and, in a way, a bit heavy. We ended with N. Ireland and have learned a lot about the aftermath of peace processes. I haven't been able to upload photos or get online to post.

The city bus in Belfast dropped us off at city centre and the first thing I saw was a statue dedicated to women workers. That, in itself, was great, but to make it even better, someone had yarn-bombed the two statues, thus combining two things I love and look for wherever I go: women's history and street art.

In both Belfast and Derry (aka Londonderry, depending on one's political inclinations) we saw the political murals and talked to people about the peace process. It is, however, to quote our taxi driver, "a funny kind of peace." When there was an effort to bring 8 and 9 year olds together across the divide of Catholic-Protestant animosity, it didn't work; the children started kicking each other and calling each other names. Our guide said, "We have to get them much earlier, by the age of 4, before their parents have taught them to hate." Decades, centuries of animosity die hard.

There is a literal, physical wall between the Protestant/Orange side and the Catholic sides of Belfast. In a twist of irony they call it the  Peace Wall, but it is a peace wall in a loose sense of the word. It keeps factions apart, that is all. All but one of the gates are locked at night; only one is kept open and that one is heavily monitored. In Derry, there is a peace bridge over the Foyle River connecting the two sides.

Ends of trips are bittersweet. We saw a lot of places, learned (even touched) points of history both ancient and modern, met kind and helpful people -- and it was all good. We drove roads that felt un-drivable (if that's a word) and made it through with nary a scratch.  We visited six libraries, both old and new (for me) and walked on four (or was it five) iconic brdges (for Doug.) We ate scrumptious food (the mussels were particularly good) and relaxed together.

Our dear Precious (Matthew's poodle) died while we were gone and that makes homecoming a bit less joyful. Even so, its good to get back. To travel is good and coming home -- that's good too.